3D Printed Mech Suit

I've had my Elegoo Mars Pro for a while now and used it to print numerous things. Miniatures, accessories for gaming, custom mounts for my Ikea cabinet, on and on. But the first thing I printed (aside from the test model) was this H.A.B. Environment Suit in 28mm by Roguish_Charms on Thingiverse.

The model comes with 3 pieces: the pilot, cockpit door, and suit. I only printed the suit and sealed it up. The antenna were very fragile and so I replaced them with steel wire of roughly the same diameter. 

The model was painted with acrylic paints and washes and for the markings I used rub on transfers. The base is a bottle top (which I made no effort to conceal). It was decorated with cork and some flocking, leaves, and moss from my basing supplies.

This was a fun little build which I cranked out in an afternoon just for the sake of painting something.

 

 

 

The Thing

Some time back, at one of the many model shows I've attended I won a The Thing model kit from Toy Biz. It was a Level 1 Snap together kit. I've never been a big fan of the Fantastic 4 or Thing but the model looked like a quick build and a chance to do something a little different so I gave it a go. 

Assembly

There were few parts and the assembly was quite easy, however, there were significant issues with the seems. I will say that for a snap together kit almost nothing snapped together. There were many clamps involved in getting the pieces to join. Another complaint would be that the rocky texture of the Thing completely fell apart around the seems. I most of my time working on marrying up the textures and in the end I think I could have kept working at it a bit longer. Ultimately what I didn't achieve in texture I tried to imply with shading and I think it came out pretty well.

Priming & Pre-Shading

The model was primed in Stynylrez Black, highlighted with Stynylrez Grey at a 90 degree and once more with Stynylrez White from above with special attention paid to protruding surfaces. Some people claim that pre-shading is a waist of time but I think it depends on the model. The key is to ensure that the top coats are light enough to allow your pre-shading to determine the tone, shade, or hue of the color applied. In this case I think it had a very noticeable impact on the final result.

Color, Highlights, and Shading

All colors were Vallejo acrylics sprayed from my iwata Neo. I based the model in a 1:1:1 mix of Orange Red, Golden Brown, and Flow Improver. The shorts were painted in Dark Blue with Army Painter Blue Tone brushed into the shadows and Vallejo DeepSky Blue + Dark Blue for highlights. The belt, eyes, and teeth are Ivory with White highlights. All the shading and highlights of the stone texture are the result of pre-shading with the exception of the crevices which were hand painted with Games Workshop Nulin Oil (that was tedious).

 

 

 

Base

I did not care for the original base or the way it was painted in the box art. It was far to smooth for a destroyed street. To fix this I added texture with Liquatex Resin Sand and a mix of course and fine sand and PVA glue.

The Thing's foot didn't fit flush to the base so I layed down a layer of apoxie sculpt where his foot would make contact, wrapped his foot in plastic wrap and pressed it into the putty. once it cured I applied the same texture to the visible portions of the foot print.

It was all primed black, washed with a thinned Heavy Brown, and again with Umber Wash. Heavy Brown was then dry brushed across the gravely textures. The metal components were dry brushed with Army Painter Gun Metal then washed with multiple rust colors. 

The street sign was airbrushed with  Gun Metal from the top down. The street name plate was masked and airbrushed with light green and an ivory border was brushed on. I made the Lee St (RIP Stan) lettering in Comic Sans and cut it out on my Cricut. Chipping was added and a black wash was applied to the recesses.

In the end I'm pretty happy with how this guy turned out. It might not be the most complicated build or paint scheme ever but I'm happy with what I achieved and I think I was able to capture the old time comic feel better than the box art example.

Vallejo Paint Stands

I recently picked up three laser cut paint stands from Vallejo. Two of the corner, and one of the front modules will set you back about $60 from Amazon.com. I didn't quite realize how large the racks would be until I had them assembled and on my desk. Each of the racks connects to the other. Mounting 'hardware' is included.

I was a little disappointing that the larger diameter holes along the top edge are too small to accommodate my large Tamiya bottles. They are the perfect size for P3, Mig, GW, and small Tamiya bottles.

This represents less than half of my Vallejo paints so I plan on purchasing three more of the front module paint stands which I plan on placing under and forward of these. It will require me to build a custom stand but I think once it is all done it will work quite well. I have also decided to change the mounts of my overhead lamps to the sides of my desk so that I can slide the paint stands back flush to the wall.