Monday, February 17, 2020

Ork Dakka Jet 2.0

I have previously used a Hasegawa Egg plane as the base for an Orky conversion. I have quite a few of these kits waiting in the winds for their turn to be converted. As with the last conversion this one is based on the Corsair. I used a Grot for the pilot and made a few modifications. A pair of shades, adjusted his arms and later added a scarf flapping in the breeze. 

I swapped out the wheels in favor of some sturdy sleds. I thought perhaps the tires blew out on this at some point and the Orks swapped out the weak rubber for more metal.


I wanted a different look for this model and so I went with a bi-plane. Here I imagine the Orks wanted more lift so they pieced together this wing and slapped it in place. I made the wing out of 2mm thick PVC foam board. This material takes impressions well and allowed me to press in the panel lines with sculpting tool. I used various methods to create the fasteners. Rivets were pressed in place using a burnishing tool to create a recess, some of those recesses were left hollow, others were filled with micro beads. On some panels I used rivet and nut/bolt details from Meng.

For the points where the vertical supports met the wings I used polystyrene tubes and the supports locked into these points. The opposite sides of these were detailed with layered polystyrene disks. Half rods were used to create the hinges. Greenstuff was used to detail welds.

I replaced part of the tail section with wood and detailed spots of battle damage with putty to replicate the displacement of metal from the impact of kinetic rounds.


I used bombs from two kits and detailed them with a bit of styrene. All parts got some wear and tear by cutting out notches with my hobby knife.

I used paperclips for the foot and hand holds. For the vertical supports I used a combination of toothpicks and various types of extruded polystyrene. I used a lighter to soften some of them to introduce bends and curves. Various bits and styrene were used for other details.


For the base I laid out some scrap bits surrounded by putty and sand. A hole was drilled for an acrylic rod. The base was painted with crackle paint, painted, washed, highlighted with dry brushing, and then rust was added with a sponge method.

The model itself was first primed grey and then sponged all over with various rust colors. Water was laid down over areas where I would later want rust to show through and then salt was sprinkled over the wet areas. Once the salt was dried I painted the base colors with Vallejo and Army Painter acrylics. The overall tone was Army Painter Dragon red. Individual panels were tinted with various reds and oranges to give the impression they were painted at different times. The salt was then rubbed away to reveal the rust tones underneath and to add true depth to the paint.

The details were painted by brush and a gloss coat was applied to seal it all and to provide a smooth surface for decals. The checker pattern decals came with the model and were applied over the gloss coat with the aid of microsol and microset. Rust and chipping effects were applied over the decals using a sponge. 

Following that another gloss coat was laid down and then oil paints and washes were applied to achieve the desired weathered appearance.


Sunday, February 16, 2020

Hobby Year 2020

Well, to be honest not much hobby progress took place in 2019. Work, family, life it all takes time and my hobby bench didn't see too much love. I did complete a couple of projects I haven't had the time to share on here yet and those posts are coming. I picked up Blitz Bowl and knocked out another Orky conversion.

I'm proud to say that I've hit the ground running in 2020. I've started a hobby journal where I keep track of the progress of each of my projects and take detailed notes on the methods of construction and painting. It is my aim to go back to these notes in the future when I want to recreate a particular technique or duplicate a scheme for an army.

I've also begun attending regular IPMS club meetings and started to branch out tackling model kits other than Warhammer. This, combined with the journal has helped me to keep on track thus far. I've already completed a Star Wars AT-M6 from Bandai and a Battlestar Galactica Colonial Viper from Monogram.

I'm deep into a project building the Ghostbusters Ecto-1 from Polar Lights. I'm building it as a replica of the one depicted in the upcoming release of Ghostbusters 3. I also have on the table the Ork half of my Blitz Bowl box, a figure of Marvel's The Thing, and a Back to the Future DeLoreon.

Granted I have plenty of other kits to build but these are my goals for now and the ones I've been actively working on. Crossing my fingers for a productive year.

Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Use a Scrapbook Machine for Scratchbuilding!

A little while back I picked up a Cricut Maker. The tool is generally used to cut card stock for scrap booking projects but this particular model can be used to cut anything from paper to 2mm thick chipboard. I thought the Mrs and I could get dual use out of it. She could use it for scrap booking and arts/crafts projects in her classroom while I could use it to score polystyrene and cut custom stencils for model builds.

I've made a few stickers and stencils but until now I hadn't used it for making model parts. Today I gave it a go and made the set of landraider doors you see above for a conversion I'm working on.

If you're considering using a Cricut, or any other vinyl cutter, for model building your likely looking for precision and uniformity. With that in mind the first step is to obtain the measurements of what you are planning to build. In my case I wanted to make a substitute for an existing model part. So I went about measuring all dimensions (x,y,z) with a set of digital calipers.

I worked in metric as I find it easier to work with at this scale.

The next step was to transfer my measurements into a graphic which would be accepted by the Cricut. The best, free, tool I have on had for that task is Google Sketchup.

This is a great free drafting program and I've used it for home remodels, furniture, and model design. I drew the doors anticipating multiple layers in order to build the thickness I needed. I am using .5mm polystyrene and need a final thickness of 2mm.

The square in the upper left corner is important for later. That is a 1 inch by 1 inch square for scale. Once the drawing is completed I exported a 2D .PNG file. I like PNG because the transparency works well in the Cricut software. Below is the .PNG file for a set of two landraider doors.
Note: the first picture is for plain polystyrene. The second photo is for a textured polystyrene. In my case I used diamond plate. Please feel free to use this files in your project!
The photo is then loaded into Cricut and inserted into a new project. On the artboard of the new project I make a 1x1 square a quarter of an inch into the board on both the x and y access. I use this to help me adjust the imported graphic to the appropriate scale. It is important that once you have this layout set to your liking that you 'attach' the square that you made to the imported graphic. This ensures that the dimensions and location carry over to the next step.

I've been using the settings below and 4 passes to cut my projects. Your results may differ, perhaps a the knife tool would be better suited for this but I'm using everything as it came out of the box for the moment.

Be careful when loading the tray. Any pieces of material that aren't adhered to the cutting mat have will likely get caught as the machine calibrates.

Once the machine does its work you'll have some beautify scored polystyrene which, after a quick pass of your hobby knife, will pop out nicely. Again, this is where perhaps the heavy duty blade would make better work of the polystyrene, but at this moment I haven't used one yet.

As you can see the work is clean and precise. One could easily design an entire model using sketchup and a Cricut!
Tip: Looking for a good source of cheap polystyrene? Look no further than your local sign maker. I was able to pickup a .5mm 4 foot by 8 foot roll of polystyrene for less than $10!

Thursday, January 10, 2019

We All Start Somewhere

My first figurine

We all start somewhere. I've always been artistic. Both my parents are very talented artists with different mediums. Modeling was a hobby passed down to me from my father. He's been modeling since childhood. He builds primarily autos and modern military with exceptional skill. As a child I was often brought along to IPMS club meetings, model shows, and swap-meats. I was given model car and airplane kits as a child and enjoyed building them but never really put that much effort into it. It was something to play with, building the model was a means to an end, enjoyable, but not the focus of my attention.

Then on an outing with my family I came across a little pewter dragon. I thought I'd like to bring this little dragon to life and put some paint on it. Oh did I! That little dragon led to more dragons, and soldiers, orks, daemons, barbarians, so much pewter. On outings to the mall or little boutique stores I'd always be on the lookout for another pewter figurine to spend my allowance on. I loved looking at the sprawling displays of painted tin solders in stores thinking of the endless fun I could have painting them.

There was, unfortunately, one problem... money. Those little pewter figures don't come cheap. I recall the typical figure costing me around $20 a piece. For a tween in the early 90s that was a steep price to pay for anything. As a result many of the figures I purchased during that time were of a fairly low quality. Cheap figures are, well, cheap, lacking in definition and detail.

By the time I reached high school a friend of mine, who was deep into role playing games, and has previously introduced me to Magic The Gathering, gave me a single Space Marine to build and paint. I was hooked. First, the cost per model was far better than the pewter I had been purchasing in gift shops. I could by a whole squad of space marines for what I had been paying for a single figurine.

While accompanying my father to another model show I came across a box full of random 40k models. He got it for me and that box provided countless hours of hobby time. With nothing more than craft paints and dime store brushes I set to work on painting countless Blood Angels as well as many other random models, Tyranids, Imperial Guard, even a few Eldar got in the mix.

There was very little technique to my modeling then. I applied a single thick layer of color to each model as if following a paint by numbers guide. I had a few old White Dwarf and Citadel catalogs to help me along the way but in those days there was no YouTube, no hobby blogs dedicated to teaching painting techniques. But practice makes perfect, or so they say.

So I kept right at it painting everything in that box and occasionally a few more. I received the 2nd Edition box set one year for my birthday and painted that too. I never did learn the game you see. I was just interested in the modeling and lore.

Sometime in the late 90s, when I was in high school, I got my first commission. A kid across the street had heard about my painting from my little brothers and he wanted his Eldar army painted. I accepted the challenge and for a whopping $15 I painted his army. I remember a squad of Windriders, a couple support batteries, a squad of striking scorpions, the OG Wraithlord, Avatar, and Farseer. I put a lot of pride into those models. Even did some wet blending before I knew that was a thing. He was happy, I was happy. That experience definitely encouraged me to keep pushing my skills. 

There was a brief hiatus in college and then I set back to it. By this time ebay was on the scene. I started painting whatever looked cool at the time and turned around and sold them on ebay for a profit. Sure I was making far less than minimum wage, but my hobby was paying for itself. I'd sell each model for at least double retail and that meant for each one I turned out I could buy two more.

My skills definitely developed during this time. Practice right? I painted Daemon Princes, Nightbringers, Confrontation and Warmachine, even got a commission request for Typhus. I tried my hand at different techniques, wet blending, non-metallic metals, conversions, washes. I was making quite a bit of progress. But as life so often does it got in the way and this all to time consuming hobby got put to the back burner. Packed up and boxed away in the closet or garage it was all but forgotten.

To be clear I didn't stop art all together. I've always been an artist, drawing, painting, designing, animating, making in one fashion or another. I even had a comic series published in the local paper when I was 16. I just got burned out on modeling and had to step away for a while. I got heavily into digital art, learning the in's and out's of Illustrator and Photoshop. Made an enormous amount of graphic images and started a DeviantArt page. I started painting on canvas for the first time since high school art class. 

Along the way I learned a valuable lesson. During this same time my father was helping me with some home repairs. While changing out some outlets he inspected my work and noticed that the top and bottom screws in a wall plate did not have the screw heads aligned in the same vertical orientation. He corrected the issue and noted the importance of taking pride in one's work. This would stick with me. How was it that he could produce such detailed lifelike models? His pride in those details was the key.

After a while I felt the need to break out again, to try something different yet familiar. I wanted a hobby that I could interact with. So I decided that it was time to learn how to play 40k. So I broke out my old boxes of miniatures. A lot of them made their way to ebay. And I focused in on an old Catachan boxed army that I had in my possession for at least the last 8 years and I got to painting.

I studied the rules and found a meetup group in which to play. After my first meat up I was surprised to find out that Warhammer 40k was firmly in 6th Edition. Oh well I could learn; and so I did. That became my new motivation to paint. Getting a painted unit on the table was a satisfying feeling and admiring the work of others encouraged me further. I started practicing new techniques, watching tutorials, and reading books. I was painting again. I started this blog as a way to document my journey and share what I'd learned with others. Once again I joined my father in the hobby room and learned from him.

I picked up the Imperial Armour masterclass books and applied the techniques I learned in them to my new models. That practice was invaluable. I ditched my trusty craft paints in favor of Army Painter and Vallejo. In a short period of time I had painted countless models, tried numerous techniques, often screwing them up but not being afraid to try again until I had it mastered. All in an effort to get the best looking army I could out on the table. It was a treat each week to debut a new unit to the group. I took pride in the details. My father bought me an epic model in which to showcase as many skills as I could. A challenge for my first IPMS model contest entry. The Imperial Knight Titan.

I added countless techniques and tools to my modeling tool belt. Airbrush, weathering powders, oil paints, sculpting, scratch building, decal application. I entered that model in the next show and, much to my surprise, walked away with a 3rd place. That build, and it's subsequent success, drove my passion further. 

Looking back at where my skill started and where it is now I can honestly say that practice is important but if it weren't for all the help I had along the way I can't say I'd have progressed nearly this much. The tips and tricks I learned from my father, the techniques I've learned from fellow bloggers and YouTubers, the numerous articles I've read in hobby books and magazines, they've all contributed to the outcome of that practice. 

Malcolm Gladwell covered this in his book Outliers. It isn't just that practice makes perfect. Often sighted as 10000 hours of practice to become an expert. It is, as he noted, deliberate practice that makes perfect. That's what my father was demonstrating when he noted my crooked screw. A deliberate attention to the work at hand. A thoughtfulness in each action, in each detail. Each brush stroke is a deliberate action with a purpose. 

Now please don't interpret this to mean that I think I'm an expert. I know I have areas for improvement. I need much more experience in figure painting, and to that end, it's an area I'm working on. 

In addition to figures, I want to test my skills on different subjects. Automotive, aerospace, military, dioramas, nautical, all of the above in both modern and historical. Regardless of the subject the practice gained in each of those subjects will no doubt lead to new skills, new techniques, new tools in my hobby tool belt. And as I learn from these adventures in modeling I'll continue to share the story here. What I've gotten right, and what I've gotten wrong. Hopefully some of the things I share here will help you on your journey. 

Until next time, happy modeling!

Monday, January 7, 2019

War-Con 1

IPMS Las Vegas is showing Warhammer fans some love this year with the addition of War-Con 1 to this year's Best of the West show. This is always a great show but with all the Warhammer love this year it's a better time than ever for wargammers to show off their modeling skills. Hope to see you there!

Monday, September 17, 2018

Salamander Commission

Recently I had a reader reach out to me about completing a commission piece. He wanted a Salamander Command Vehicle made and painted to match his existing army. At first I was apprehensive, knowing the amount of time it often takes me to complete a project. But we worked out the terms and I set to work. 

I already had two converted/scratch built Salamanders awaiting paint. I took my favorite of the two and set about making a few more tweaks. I made a spare link of tracks and attached it to the side of the hull using some lead foil. I also updated the antenna on the coms unit, opting for some needle and high tension model aircraft wire for strength.

I also removed and replaced the barrel on the pintel mounted cannon in favor of a metal one.

All the weapons were magnetized to allow for easy swapping depending on his preferred load-out.

The model was painted in Vallejo paints to match the scheme of his existing army. I started with a pre-shaded primer coat and then followed up with light coats of the base and high light colors he had provided making sure to let the primer shading show through. All the metallic parts were made by applying graphite over flat black. The red stripe was masked and painted and then it was time to start weathering.

Looking at pictures of his other tank I noted the level of wear on the vehicle and went for something in that ballpark. I applied a light layer of chipping in the areas of heaviest wear using the sponge technique. I then applied a coat of clear gloss. Atop the gloss I applied Tamyia Panel Line accent to all the panel lines and rivets. Were appropriate the panel liner was dragged downward with a brush. Elsewhere, extra wash was removed with a Q-Tip. Once I was satisfied with the level of weathering a mat finish was sprayed over the model. 

Gloss finishes were applied to the lenses and a fresh rubbing of graphite was applied to the metal bits. The gunner and commander received the same treatments as the Salamander.

I'm always open to the idea of commissions. Between work and raising an 8 month old I can't say I'll always say yes but I find this kind of work quite fun. It gives me a deadline I feel much more pressure to beat than my own arbitrary goals, and it gives me a reason to paint something outside of my norm, plus I don't have to find a place to store it afterwards! If you have a commission request feel free to shoot me an email and I'll get back to you with pricing.